For this Journal entry, I invited Alex Musgrave to share an edit exploring perfume layering and longevity through a series of considered pairings. Each combination has been built around the inclusion of a perfume oil, creating a softly moisturised surface for scent to cling to, which can enhance longevity in the process.
As ever, these are not prescriptions but invitations to experiment, to notice how perfume behaves over time and to enjoy the pleasure of fine-tuning your own personal scentscape, including the joy of creating something uniquely yours.
Layering perfumes is a tricky subject, some brands happily promote it, suggesting ideas and pairings, other brands do not, preferring individual compositions to stand alone. Ultimately it is up to the wearer, but we would like to recommend a little experimentation first and think about what you want from your scented experience.
With a few trials, perfume on perfume, perfume oils and body products can be used to manifest a new multi-facetted aroma. Longevity is not a concept that can be forced upon perfumes, the length and substantiality depend on how the perfumes have been created, the quality of the notes, concentration of the perfume (eau de toilette, eau de parfum, extrait etc) and fixatives, materials renowned for a dual role in odour (clary sage, ambergris tincture), and easing out the drydown and shaping any potential sillage, that hard to define echo of scented self left behind as you move through lives.
At Sainte Cellier we would like to offer you a few ideas for layering, which in turn alter and stretch out the notes in two differing compositions. There are no hard and fast rules and sometimes part of the fun is just experimenting and seeing how things work or don’t. Make notes of mixes you like.
Tragedy Perfume Oil by Marissa Zappas & Victoria by Frassaï
Both these beautifully crafted perfumes have a lush tuberose note at their hearts. Tragedy is an atmospheric portrait of bygone theatres and old school actresses, with a huge slick of orange flower and creamy sandalwood.
This provides a delicious base for Victoria, whose tuberose is wrapped in rose and pink zingy lychee, oud and aromatic frankincense. The layering amplifies the headiness of the white flowers with soft smoke and tropical nuances.
Oranger Sirocco Extrait Absolu by Les Indémodables & Pichola by Neela Vermeire Créations
Oranger Sirocco Extrait Absolu is a fabulously juicy warm citrus dusted with a persuasive cinnamon note that utterly transforms the orange into something sweet, savoury and mysterious. A sun-soaked souk of a scent, sensual and rich with suggestive solar bursts.
Pichola is one of the most beautiful perfumes in Neela Vermeire’s Indian inspired collection, created by master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. Inspired by Lake Pichola, used as a spectacular location in the 13th Bond film Octopussy, indolic white florals are lit by a decadent orange blossom note, saffron and neroli.
Layered with Oranger Sirocco Extrait Absolu, the two create a thrilling maelstrom of orange blossom and spiced heat.
Vanille Havane Extrait Absolu by Les Indémodables & Pas de Chat by Odette Parfum Co.
Vanille Havane Extrait Absolu by Les Indémodables is a supercharged, richer more obsessive version of the original Vanille Havane. The cocoa note is infinitely deeper, simmered and lacquered. The vanilla smells incredible, leathered and roasted making this quite the skin experience.
It works very well with Pas de Chat by Odette Parfum Co., a collection of unashamedly gourmand ballet-core perfumes. A kitten fur accord echoes the classic ballet step and a note of Madeleine with vanilla and tonka bean round off the pretty cravings.
The two perfumes mingle to create a simply delicious, sophisticated gourmand vibe that is never over the top or too sweet.
Pink Bedroom Perfume Oil by Marissa Zappas & Thumbsucker by Stora Skuggan
Pink Bedroom is another one of Marissa Zappas’ sublime perfume oils, inspired by the Pink Project created by artist Portia Munson, installations of pink detritus. The oil smells of doll heads, sweet powder and strawberry Haribo conjured by blackcurrant, the cherrylicious scent of heliotrope, roses and musky strawberries.
It marries beautifully with the fabulously named Thumbsucker from Swedish art brand Stora Skuggan. This has a chilled candied edge of violet and cherry over heady narcissus, almond and an eccentric note of candle wax. The result of the layering is a deeply moreish and sophisticated gourmand vibe.
Rose de Jamal Extrait Absolu by Les Indémodables & La Douleur Exquise by Les Abstraits
Rose de Jamal Extrait Absolu is a magisterial rose perfume, centred around a huge jammy dose of Moroccan rose absolute. Rather than creating something old fashioned, Les Indémodables present a lush rose dipped in dew, mixed with zesty mint and sparkling pink pepper.
La Douleur Exquise from cult house Les Abstraits as the brand name suggests is an unexpected carnal mix of Bulgarian and Turkish roses, dusted with saffron, clove and animalic cumin. Patchouli and smoky resins make for a satisfying base.
Mixing these two as you can imagine creates a super-rose, magnified and thunderous, a velveteen baroque room decorated in tones of wine, crushed raspberries, Ruby Wu lipstick and crimson petals.